A monoband 40M folded dipole
( A single element "vari-loop" to you VHFers, HIHI)
A borrowed MFJ 259B proved indispensible.
Monday, September 8, 2014
Tuesday, July 22, 2014
Kenwood TS-680V ALL MODE MULTIBANDER Review
Kenwood TS-680V ALL MODE MULTIBANDER Review
translated from http://cluster1.cafe.daum.net/_c21_/bbs_search_read?grpid=1H2Jw&fldid=9LSs&datanum=20&openArticle=true&docid=1H2Jw9LSs2020100827091531
KENWOODのHF ~ 50MHz10W固定機, TS-680Vです.
Kenwood shortwave 50Mhz base equipment, TS-680V
This is the rig that you have purchased a used will want after purchasing a new article, but also I have rung the local after a while. The unit was purchased used.
This is the rig that you have purchased a used will want after purchasing a new article, but also I have rung the local after a while. The unit was purchased used.
Rather than a full-fledged HF machine, it is an entry-level radio if anything, but it is rig for convenient simple operation.
In addition, we inherited the traditional TRIO Kenwood sound, even if I have listen for a long time, it is not tiresome to the ear.
Device-specific problems are not inherited in the traditional colors of the TRIO walkie-talkie.
Model number is also ◎ They discuss pulling the tradition of TS-600.
It has come in handy and check the band condition, local ragchew, and mobile operation.
Condition is excellent for local bands like communication, mobile ....
And features To proceed normally, even with the machine of HF, the knob has been placed tightly on the panel, but there are only three places only knobs this rig.
This is also a testament to the simple operation, but instead, the feature frequency of use is not very high, a small slide switch and VR
I am using.
This is also a testament to the simple operation, but instead, the feature frequency of use is not very high, a small slide switch and VR
I am using.
Attached to the switch described below in the photo from left ... ...
Switch left side of the panel, the photo below is a knob. RF AMP does not work only 50MHz and 28MHz.
In addition, the processor (PROC) also carried once, but AF type.
In the middle ....
The M..CH / VFO CH knob in the center, because it can be used to fast-forward the VFO, one has to watch out that it is not used often because it will be worn out.
판넬 우측 스위치 ..... switch on the right side of the panel, is a knob. With what a full-fledged level variable with, Woodpecker for normal and has been implemented NB. Of course, effectiveness is good.
When you change the band ... usually the amateur bands / is near the ...
It is the band switching, but usually is the top and bottom of the amateur band, but in the case of ON, 1MHzSW to the right is the top and bottom of the unit at 1MHz simply.
The S-meter, analog looks good too. From bar graph of a liquid crystal, heart calm to watch.
Easy-to-read display. Perhaps because it is not a liquid crystal and is not felt aging
· Point anxious
encoder (1) M..CH / VFO CH tends to be poor.
Does not seem to be on hand except to replace this. Thing that can be bought first, and Toyo from the service of KENWOOD, was replaced by yourself.
Slide volume of PWR and (2) MIC is, in Kurichikaru fine, adjustment is somewhat difficult.
The weak (3) intermodulation.
This is that there is no way the circuit configuration, but as long as you do not use pounding in the contest, etc., do not really care. · Notes is not especially.
encoder (1) M..CH / VFO CH tends to be poor.
Does not seem to be on hand except to replace this. Thing that can be bought first, and Toyo from the service of KENWOOD, was replaced by yourself.
Slide volume of PWR and (2) MIC is, in Kurichikaru fine, adjustment is somewhat difficult.
The weak (3) intermodulation.
This is that there is no way the circuit configuration, but as long as you do not use pounding in the contest, etc., do not really care. · Notes is not especially.
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Note, http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/1074 user information in the United States ....
Owned this rig about 2 years.
Uses about 2 years.
All I can say is the price is about the same on the used market as a first model IC-706, but has a receiver that makes the 706 look like 2 paper cups and a string.
The large output to 10 watts, but ...
10 watts on 6 is not exactly high power, but I have done a lot with less power in the past. If you want to putz on VHF get a 706, but if you want to have a good sounding and good listening rig on HF with 6 meters thrown in, get a '680.
There has been some comment about the "all or nothing" nature of the slide pots for various functions, but that has been a non-issue for me.
I keep them clean with some spray treatment, and occasionally blow some canned air into them.
It is very likely a lack of attention that causes this problem.
If you have a friend who owns a TS-140 you can get an idea by listening to that rig as well.
It is a '680 without 6 meters.
The big decider will be if you can listen to a 706 and a 140/680 side by side on an antenna switch.
The '680 will blow you away in comparison.
Besides that, maybe I am just fussy, but since I have owned all 3 models of IC-706 over the last 15 years,
I feel like I am allowed to say this: The 706 looks like a car stereo, the 140/680 looks like communications equipment.
The beauty is also far more than skin deep. :)
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I have owned this rig for a while now and couldn’t be happier, easy to use and does the job it was intended to do.
As for the slider controls, like anything different it will get criticism but once you get used to it you won’t even notice, great rig for the beginner or expert.
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I got this radio from a local amateur who wanted to upgrade.
I got it mainly for 6 metres.
It drives my amp fine on 6 and using a 5 el cushcraft I made several hundred QSOs this summer(summer of 2008) on both SSB and CW, including 20 JAs during one opening.
It was sensitive enough and did the job.
On HF,
On HF,
it is also sensitive enough and the only negative things I noticed are the IMD from nearby stations,
that has already been pointed out in one of the reviews here and the sensitivity of the power slider-- all or nothing.
I am using it now as a backup rig since my main transceiver is off to the repair shop.
I intend to keep it for backup. Also, it is fantastic for listening on the AM broadcast band with a 160m sloper.
All around, a decent radio.
I got this little gem about 4 months ago in a trade, and first impressions are pretty good.
I have received some good audio reports when using this rig.
Yea, it has those dad gum sliders for most if not all of your most important functions, RF power, Mic gain, and the RF gain, and the NB.
Currently I have this rig connected to a 67' Off Center Fed dipole up about 43', and it works very well. I have been thinking of connecting my Mosley TA-33 Tri[band 3 element bean to it and see what happens.
No it doesn't have the bells and whistles that my Icom 746 Pro has, but then again we're talking 20 year old technology here.
For all the bellyaching I've heard about this radio IMHO this is a decent little transceiver.
I have learned through trial and error, especially since I'm using a manual tuner, that it takes a LOT of patience to fine tune this rig.
That being said. all in all not a bad rig once you get to know her secrets.
This is just my first impressions of the rig, at this point in time I'm not even sure its a keeper yet or not, time will tell.
73 de Mark
AI4HO
73 de Mark
AI4HO
Well, as a starter rig, I suppose this is OK and, to be fair,
I've had a good few years of challenge with it, but there's a time that comes when the challenge gets a bit, well, frustrating !!!
On SSB for natters and non-serious use, its fine, and
I've always had good reports using it, even with a fairly mediochre microphone.
I always use the processor and I'd say that the Tx audio quality is quite fair and definitely a great deal better than some much more expensive offerings I've heard on the bands.
Trouble-is, I now operate mostly CW and even with the optional 500Hz filter that I managed to get at a ridiculous price on eBay,
Trouble-is, I now operate mostly CW and even with the optional 500Hz filter that I managed to get at a ridiculous price on eBay,
it's not really all that good.
The receive is pretty noisy and not exactly the most sensitive around - the S-meter's quite pessimistic as you go up the scale.
Mine's not too hot on image performance either which is a real pain on 30m, in particular.
But worse than the above is the controls.
But worse than the above is the controls.
What idiot thought that those stupid little slider controls were a good idea ..... especially
when some of the functions like RF Gain,
Tx power and Mic Gain actually get used sometimes.
Yes, Mr. designer, you give use manky controls for the important functions then place a rarely-used squelch control on a 'sensible' rotary pot .....
AAAARGHHH !!!! 'spose that's because it's got 6m and 6m operators all use FM, dont they ???!!!!
It's got Kenwood's famous NB1 and NB2 buttons and
It's got Kenwood's famous NB1 and NB2 buttons and
another of those ruddy sliders for the noise blanker that is fantastic at getting rid of noise provided it is precisely the right wave-shape - trouble-is very little of the noise my radio receives seems to conform,
so two yet more entirely useless controls.
Despite all the above criticisms, I suppose its OK.
The display's OK, the tuning dial's OK, it's got two VFOs which is OK and it's good enough to pull-in a fair log-book of DX, so why am I complaining ?
Well, simply-put, own one of these things for long-enough and the frustration will eventually put you on the road to buying something that works properly and had an ergonomist designing the front-panel, so as far as that's concerned,
it can only be a good thing. If you're going to keep it and use it, however, it's just OK ..... OK?!
I have the Radio more than 5 years. but still in a good operation.
I also have TS 140S. both are very good radio.
I always bring the Radio Around the Country and never had a problem.
My wife use TS 680S at home in JAKARTA and I use TS 140S around Borneo,Celebes,
Sumatra,more than 2000 mils away home.Never had a serious problem.
if you can find them for $450 harry bring then in your shack. than you will enjoy having thus Radio. 73 ...
Agus YD1TDL |
| VK5HIL | Rating: 5/5 | May 4, 2006 06:52 | Send this review to a friend |
|---|---|---|---|
| Good first HF/6M Transceiver | Time owned: 0 to 3 months | ||
| The Kenwood TS-680S is my first multiband rig. I bought it recently at my local radio club buy and sell meet for what I considered a good price. I really like the twin VFO's so I can work split frequency or split band if I choose. Good also for 10M and 6M repeaters too. Tx audio reports very favourable and Rx audio rather good (better than HR2510). I have given this radio 5/5 as it is good value for it's age and if you can find one for your first rig you should be happy. On the minus side it only does 10W on 6 but a small amp will fix that. If you want more power on 6M and can find a TS-690S within your budget then it might be a better buy. Some people mention winding up the power on 6M to abt 20W but this is more likely to shorten the PA service life. Another big plus is that you don't need to spend too much time reading the user manual to effectively use the radio. Rather straight forward operation. I am sure that I will be happy with this radio for quite some time. Now to grow some more antennae in the garden! 73 De VK5HIL Andrew | |||
| K2PGB | Rating: 5/5 | Apr 3, 2006 18:56 | Send this review to a friend |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60 Meters | Time owned: more than 12 months | ||
| I have owned the 680S since they came on the market, Also have the TS-140S both with 500 cycle filters. They have given perfect service. They are very easy to convert to 60 meters and MARS. Just clip a single diode that is out in the open on the top board. | |||
| WB5ITT | Rating: 5/5 | May 29, 2005 10:46 | Send this review to a friend |
|---|---|---|---|
| Good value for the money | Time owned: more than 12 months | ||
| Have owned a TS680 since they came out in the late 80s....first night on the air, worked a Checkaslovakian station on 20m CW using a 1/4wave gnd plane...Not bad!! I have the optional CW filter and the RS232 option installed. Original costs for all that was $1000 even from Madison's in Houston back in 88 (Thanks Don for all the great deals over the years)...Now the rcvr is not the best in the world as it does suffer blocking from strong adjacent signals on HF and it did not have all mode squelch (which I later come out with a simple mod for...WB5HJV posted it on the net and the rest of history :) 10watts only on 6 but you can turn it up to get 25+ out of the brick...just dont run FM and AM for LONG periods and you should be ok and only one antenna connection (wish there were two..above and below 30Mhz). The 680 has been mobile with me over the years on HF and 6...and works good (NB is effective on ignition noise!) Now, my plans are to remote the 680 off my UHF/220 rptr network (have done this before on a 220 standalone using an ACC Shackmaster and later/now a RLC 3 controller). The allmode squelch is not perfect (but it makes monitoring 6 SSB a pleasure) but I intend to add a Vocal SSB squelch by Naval Electronics (~$125) to make it even better...Eventually will replace it with a more up to date HF-2 or HF-UHF allmode rig...but over the last 15+ yrs, its been a workhorse...if you need info about the allmode squelch or other mods, please contact me at my callsign at arrl.net. Chris WB5ITT | |||
| M0GAZ | Rating: 4/5 | Sep 22, 2003 13:37 | Send this review to a friend |
|---|---|---|---|
| A radio that has stood the test of time!! | Time owned: more than 12 months | ||
| Although rather dated still an excellent little radio for basic operation. Positive things about the 680 are: Very robust construction. The receiver seems sensitive enough for all the band conditions I have encountered. It has good audio quality. The controls are all straight forward and easy to understand/operate; not too many bells and whistles! On the negertive side there is no internal ATU or PSU. Also Power, RF gain, and mic gain are slider controled, which is difficult to fine tune and tends to be all or nothing! | |||
| I bought my TS680S as a replacement for my previous main station rig, a TS430S. The main attractions for me were full break-in (I'm a 95% CW operator) as well as the AT250 automatic ATU that was included in the deal. I added the 500Hz CW filter which I purchased new. Things I like about the rig are: - The receiver is quite sensitive enough for any band conditions I have yet encountered, and has good audio quality under most conditions. - Good QSK (full break-in). Yes it uses a relay but the relay is quiet and does not disturb my YL when she is studying in the same room. - Excellent AM reception due to a dedicated AM filter (standard equpment). Much better than the AM reception on the TS430S using the SSB filter. - The interface port includes a audio line out with a level independent of the volume control setting and a line in that can be activated without activating the mic. This makes it easy to interface digital modes software without any "hot mic" problems. - Works well off a 12v battery for field day. Tolerates low voltages (below 13.8V) much better than my TS430S did. - Simple to use, even for a beginner. The controls are all logical and not overwhelmed by frivolous bells and whistles. Everything works as it should. Things I don't like so much include: - No internal ATU, keyer (or PSU). I have external ATU and keyer which work well but together they make for a big package for field day and DXpeditions. - According to the manual, you can't adjust the power output in CW operation! Although the power output control has some effect, it is very sensitive as it is inside the ALC loop. This seems a major oversight, since it makes it hard to operate in any contest category other that 100W output. May also be a serious problem when driving a linear, although I haven't tried that. - A noticable glitch in audio every 50 KHz when tuning, I suspect it is the syntehesizer being band switched. Even today it often makes me think there is a signal present. - When using the 500 Hz CW filter during contests with strong dignals nearby, lots of high frequency sounds almost like musical notes. Almost certainly IMD products. - The computer interface is not standard, it's an option (which may be hard to obtain these days although I haven't tried yet). I had one technical problem, an IC blew and burned a PCB track. Our local repair genius fixed it in a couple of days at a very reasonable price. Overall an honest rig that delivers what it promises. Good for general DXing and rag chewing but not ideal for contesting or multiop DXpeditions due to IMD and lack of computer control as standard. I will probably get another main station rig when I can afford it but keep the 680S for 6m use and as a backup rig. |
| N8FVJ | Rating: 4/5 | Apr 10, 2001 01:36 | Send this review to a friend |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reasonable Performance | Time owned: 3 to 6 months | ||
| The TS-680 performance is on par with most low to mid price range transceivers of the same era. The radio is loaded with features that is missing on entry level transceivers. The receiver is a little noisy and I detect some audio IMD when a powerful station is 5Khz away, however the PLL is quiet unlike the Icom IC-726 with 6 meters! I would recommend the transceiver if one can not afford an IC-728, IC-736 or newer product. I also note per QST Product Reviews, the TS-680 is far more selective than the newer TS-690! | |||
| VE3DHB | Rating: 4/5 | Sep 3, 2000 10:11 | Send this review to a friend |
|---|---|---|---|
| A good workhorse transceiver. | Time owned: 0 to 3 months | ||
| I purchased this TS-680S used about two months ago. The unit was first sold by Kenwood in the early 1990's and was one of the first 160 thru 6 all mode rigs available. The rig has a very small foot print (11 X 4 X 12), offers an output of 100 W PEP and CW / 40 AM on 160m thru 15m, 95 SSB and CW, 50 FM, 40 AM on 10m and 10 Watts SSB,CW,FM / 4 Watts AM on 6m. Output is adjustable with a front panel right-left slide pot. All controls for the rig are easy to operate and the size, flexiblity, and ergonomics make it ideal for mobile, field day, and contest use. The noise floor is a bit high (using the built in RF Pre-amp) but the addition of an external speaker helps avoid "listener fatigue". CW operation is made easy with a front panel Semi/Full break in option switch. Built in switchable processor is also a nice feature. Overall, I would give the rig 4 stars for it's features, ease of use, and my overall satisfaction. | |||
Friday, June 27, 2014
What Do Hams Do?
On June 25, 2014, I had the honor of being invited to join a team put together by the Philippine amateur Radio Association, Inc. the national ham radio organization, now led by Ms. Thelma Pascua DU1IVT, that would give a ham radio orientation seminar to some students of the University of the Philippines in Diliman, Quezon City.
I finished EE in 1977 and was glad to be back in the campus. But the real homecoming I was really excited about was that of Ham Radio since it has been 43 years since the last amateur radio activity in the Diliman Campus. Back then students (1971 operated CW and AM from their DU1UP ham shack in the 5th floor of the Engineering Building. A friend, Mario Quitoriano, ex DU1DFU told me, a lot students operated there were from non-engineering colleges. They taught each other the Morse code.I remember reading Dr. Edmundo Reyes DU1OR's book, stating that I read that the first campus ham radio station was established by an Australian EE student back in the 30s when the campus was still in Manila. Dr. Reyes (who became PARA president multiple times) recounts that this Australian student Sol Mathhew Dakis was first secretary of the Philippine Amateur Radio Association which was headed by Leon Grove, its first president.
I thought I'd share some notes for that ham seminar. It is a question often asked us by many non-hams.
Saturday, June 21, 2014
Summer 2014 DU1 Swapmeet!
Summer 2014 DU1 Swapmeet!
Souvenir Photo late afternoon, just before the end of the swapmeet (best lighting for photography)
Monday, July 15, 2013
DU1FV 23cm YAGI from a CDR-King tv antenna
DU1FV 23cm YAGI from a CDR-King tv antenna
Now that you have got a 23cm radio, you need an antenna.
Unfortunately, they are quite rare and if available sometimes expensive. Here are some photos of a prototype yagi I made from parts off a P200 HDTV antenna from CDR-King.
Below is the original P200.00 HDTV antenna. It is a relatively compact antenna.
There is a lot of element (~1/4 inch Al rod) material so it is perfect for protoyping.
We proceed to strip the original elements from the boom,
The design of this antenna is based on the method of perturbation.
The following steps are followed:0. Mount the boom securely.
1. A driven element (DE) style is selected. In this case I choose a double bazooka style of element.
I made it out of 3/8 copper tube from a ref supply house.I split the center and inserted the foam insulator with center conductor from a piece of 50 ohm foam type coax. To make it a bazooka, I soldered the center conductor by flaring the strands so they touch the rim of the copper tube at the ends. See picture below.
2. The DE is cut so that it is resonant at about the target frequency and is tuned as a simple dipole directly fed by coax via suitable connectors.
It has to be mounted on the boom when measuring swr.
It took me three tries before I got an acceptable reading, about 1: 1.8 to 2.0 I used a vhf-uhf cross needle swr meter by Daiwa. It is not calibrated for 1200MHz But it reads 1200mHz energy quite well (too well in fact: ten watts wold read 25w) and is ok for relative measurements for swr.
3. A field strength meter (FSM) is devised from a common analog volt ohm meter. If you tx with your portable with rubber duck antenna next to it there should be some reading while it is in the AC posiition. It does not have to calibrated because it is only use for relative measurement.
4. A wood chopstick is used as a temporary element support and one element of the orig tv antenna is cut to about textbook length of a dipole plus maybe ten percent. Use masking tape to attach the element to the chopstick.
5. Position your FSM along the book till you get a reading when you drive the DE. Then slowly position the first parasitic element on the chopstick in between the FSM and the DE. Obeserve if signal goes up or down as the field is "perturbed" by the proximity of the parasitic. Compare the reading with another one taken with this time the parasitic in the "back" of the DE (which puts the DE in between the FSM and the parasitic. since we have cut roughly long w the behacior we are looking for is tha of a reflector.
6. Generally if the signal reading goes up when the parasitic is between the FSM and DE, the parasitic is "short" and behaves more like a director. If on the other hand, the signal decreases, it is acting like a reflector effectively shielding the FSM from the DE. If this is the case, yo will generally find that if you put in the back of the DE, the FSM will read slight ly higher compared to one taken with the parasitic removed from the vicinity of the DE. You will now have a feel if the parasitic is long or short.
7. Make another parasitic, one slightly shorter maybe by one half mm. Try to replace the old parasitic with the new one. If it sit still behave as a reflector , that is good. If it is a better reflector (measure FSM) let it be the new reflector. You can now grind down the first parasitic you made to make it shorter by half an mm. then replace the mounted one with the newly shortened one and see the FSM reading. By now you should get the drift.
8. There will come a point that as you shorten the parasitic it will become a "director" and you can confirm this by placing it in between the DE and the FSM the signal should go up dramatically.
9. The same process of slowly cutting and grinding down the succeeding parasitics will yield a quite decent antenna. as long as you are careful with FSM relative measurements. also check the swr now and then.
Remember to always compare reading BEFORE and AFTER a CHANGE. And follow the EXPERIMENTORS CREED: " CHANGE ONE THING AT A TIME"
10. At one point you may even feel that your driven element is too long or short as swr will vary as you add elements. In my prototype I did have to change the DE length just once after adding the fourth parasitic and the swr kick back to acceptable level.
This in a nutshell, is the process of perturbation. Unlike blindly following published design specs, it "automatically" takes in to account element diameter, height above boom, diameter of boom etc. It is a bit like analog computing. The principle is not my own. I first read about it in a ham magazine during the 80s. I am not sure but it was probably QST and the author did it for a uhf beam.
Notes
There are existing evenly spaced holes corresponding to element spacing of the HDTV antenna. I decided to stick the original spacings and do element length tuning only, so I can use the existing holes. There might be more optimum spacings but I did not want to weaken the boom too much by drilling more holes through it. Since this is a cheap HDTV antenna, the boom is not too sturdy.Enhancements
This is a prototype and can stand some improvement like enclosing the entire driven element in a waterproof radome of some sort, but I will leave it up to you to think of enhancements.73 Ramon DU1FV
Thursday, July 4, 2013
Happy Fourth of July to our brother Americans!
Friday, June 21, 2013
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